The personal website of

Master of Wine

Roger C. Bohmrich

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Tasted & Recommended - Champagne

Champagne is a distinctive wine, one of the iconic blended products in the world of wine. The intricacies of the Champagne process and the wine itself demand careful study. I was fortunate to work closely with a great house as an importer, which gave me the opportunity to learn about the many subtleties that define this remarkable drink.

 

 The Champagnes on this page were tasted in New York at various tastings in September and October 2011. See Tasting Notes & Ratings page for an explanation of the rating system.

Image © Roger C. Bohmrich

Here are my impressions of the Champagnes of two favorite growers tasted in November 2014:

René Geoffroy "Pureté" Brut Nature  NV ***+

Pale straw gold with fin bead. Low-toned nose with muted honey and dried yellow fruit notes. In the mouth, this Champagne is more expressive and displays oak accents. Dry but not sharp. 71% Pinot Noir/29% Chardonnay raised in Burgundian barrels. No dosage.

René Geoffroy "Expression" Brut NV ****

Pale straw gold with an active mousse. Lovely, forthcoming aromatics offering pure white fruits and toasted white bread. The palate is composed, expressive, balanced. Finishes long and nuanced with fine, elegant acidity. The same blend as above.


René Geoffroy "Empreinte” Brut 2007 ****

Pale straw gold with delicate bead. The nose is complex, marked by the base wine's contact with wood, and exhibits inflections of toast, pepper and dried spice. In the mouth, Empreinte is medium plus in weight, authoritative and dry. Well-balanced and inflected finale. 76% Pinot Noir/13% Chardonnay/11% Pinot Meunier. Majority of blend is vinified in barrels of varying sizes.


René Geoffroy "Volupté" Brut 2007 ****

Very pale straw gold. Elusive aroma suggesting pastry and white fruits. Focused and well-defined on the palate with delicacy and transparency. Understated inflections in the aftertaste.


René Geoffroy Millésime Extra Brut 2004 ****+

Pale bright gold with slight bead (this was decanted). Nuanced, vinous nose with oak-induced notes of toast and coffee. The palate is lovely, intense and particularly expressive. Long, complex finish with a suggestion of Manzanilla Sherry and a saline conclusion. A wine lover's Champagne.


Pierre Gimonnet Cuis Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV *****

Very pale yellow gold with fine mousse. Fragrant, inviting nose offering nuances of citrus, white fruits and white bread. In the mouth, this pure Chardonnay from the village of Cuis is soft, round and full of charm, finishing with tender, embedded acidity and lasting fragrance. This current cuvée is 77% 2011 vintage with small additions of 2010, 2009, 2007 & 2006.


Pierre Gimonnet "Cuvée Gastronome" Brut 2009 ****+

Pale straw gold. Seductive, multi-faceted fragrance with noteworthy expressiveness, floral and gently toasted. Gastronome delivers a round, textured feel in the mouth with underlying dosage. Long, enveloping and caressing in its conclusion. This seductive Champagne is impossible to resist.


Pierre Gimonnet "Cuvée Oenophile" Extra Brut 2008 ****+

Pale yellow gold. Lifted aromatics delivering cold cream and very subtle white fruit. Soft, understated and medium- to full-bodied. Very classy, ending dry but not severe. A blend of Grand and Premier Cru origins. No dosage.

 

Pierre Gimonnet "Fleuron" Brut 2006 ****

Pale yellow gold. To the nose, Fleuron shows a well-matured aspect with a suggestion of coffee and pepper along with notable depth. The taste is similarly mature in its flavor profile with toast, nut and faint white mushroom. Persistent and complex. All Chardonnay from Grand and Premier Cru villages.


Pierre Gimonnet "Special Club" 2006 ****+

Pale yellow gold. The aroma is multidimensional and layered, offering toast and white fruit. In the mouth, Special Club provides an impression of ripeness and is round, fleshy and full-bodied. 65% Cramant, 22.5% Chouilly, 12.5% Cuis. 

To read my Champagne tasting notes for other producers and past vintages, click on the pdf icon below

 


 

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